Is it Damask or is it Brocade?
by Brenna Sharp
To many people, the words 'damask' and 'brocade' are synonymous. To others, that notion is tantamount to heresy. According to Webster's New Twentieth Century Dictionary (unabridged) 2nd edition (published 1968, World Publishing Co.), they are defined as follows:
brocade, n. [Sp. brocado, from LL. brocare, to embroider, stitch.] a rich cloth with a raised design woven into it, as of silk, velvet, gold, or silver.
damask, n. [ME. damaske, named from the city of Damascus.]
1. a silk fabric, having some parts raised in the form of flowers or other figures, originally made in Damascus,: now also applied to other, similar fabrics, as linen.
2. a fine, twilled table linen, in imitation of damask silks.
(3, 4, and 5 are deleted here as they are unrelated to fabric.)
6. a mixed modern fabric of cotton, silk, wool, etc., used in upholstery, hangings, etc.
It would appear from this that they are essentially the same thing. (Don't start throwing anything yet, okay?) They both have a raised design woven in and are considered "special" fabrics, silk being mentioned as the (apparently) usual fiber for each of them.
We also get the impression from the above quote that brocade is recognised as the richer (more textured?) fabric of the two with damask perhaps being a stronger, more serviceable stuff.
Right about this time, I remembered another book , Introductory Textile Science, 3rd edition, by Marjory L. Joseph (published 1977, Holt, Rinehart and Winston). In there, I found these definitions:
brocade Rich Jacquard-woven fabric with an allover interwoven design of raised figures or flowers. The name is derived from the French word meaning "to ornament". The brocade pattern is emphasized with contrasting surfaces or colors and often has gold or silver threads running through it. The background may be either satin or twill weave. It is used for dresses, draperies, and upholstery.
damask A firm-textured fabric with a raised pattern, similar to brocade, but lighter and reversible. Table damasks are Jacquard woven in lustrous designs.
Go ahead. Read 'em again. Now, you tell me. Is it damask or is it brocade?