What I Know About Shisha
by Ula Cimmiyotti
I am not an expert on Shisha (shee-shuh) by any means; but I will tell you what I know.
Shisha is made by embroidering small mirrors onto fabric. It started in Northern India about 500 years ago and, since then, the idea has spread to other Middle Eastern countries, most notably Pakistan and Afghanistan. The designs are usually geometric and balanced. Shisha is believed to protect the wearer or house from evil spirits or "the evil eye" by reflecting the ill will back to the spirit or bad person.
The most common pieces of Shisha sold in America were originally made for household decoration as wall hangings or pillows covers, or are animal trappings. Occasionally you can find Cholis (Indian women's dance shirts) and skirts with Shisha on them in shops, but generally Belly/Middle Eastern dance suppliers are more likely to have those items.
When shopping for Shisha you need to inspect the pieces closely. Here are some things to look for:
- make sure the mirrors are secured well to the base fabric
- feel for sharp edges on the mirrors; sharp edges will cut the threads holding them on and the mirrors will fall off
- make sure the overall embroidery is well done with no snags, loose threads, etc.
- look for backed/lined pieces; these will last longer, wear better and are more stable
- if the piece has any dagging, check for wear; often the dagging will be interlined and this interlining will settle to the bottom causing a lumpy look.
There can be drastic differences in the quality of mirror used. The older pieces (25+ years old) will have more bubbles and cracks in the mirrors but will cost more because they are considered antiques. The newer pieces have much better mirrors with brighter colors in the embroidery but seem to lack the character of the older pieces. Another sign of age is the silvering on the back of the mirror, if it has peeled up from the glass it is an older piece. I have also seen a few pieces of "new Shisha" that is mass-produced, usually as trim. These are
very cheaply made with flimsy backing material, lightweight threads and plastic mirrors. I
don't like it very much myself, but it is great for children's clothing and stage use, as it is lightweight and unbreakable.
Prices vary greatly depending on the age, the quality and the dealer's idea of worth. Below is a general price range (not including the "new Shisha"):
Pillowcases $15 - $30 each
Bedspreads $150 - $500 (very hard to find)
Animal Trappings/Wall Hangings $20 - $50 per foot
Trim $2 - $8 per yard
Finding Shisha can be difficult at best. Bellydance suppliers often have a good supply but usually work out of their homes and only sell at classes and Dance showcases. The only permanent local store that I know of is Cargo located on 13th and Glisan in Northwest Portland. I can get the names of some good private suppliers to anyone that is interested. I have also seen Shisha in catalogs and on the Internet but I do not recommend buying without inspecting it for yourself.
I hope this information will get you interested in Shisha. I think it can be easily adapted into costuming ideas.